The Ethiopians - A History of Costumes
The dress of the Ethiopian peoples, whose territory lay to the south of Egypt, was on the whole identical with that of the Egyptians...
Updated On: 10/8/2007 [Total Votes: 731, Hits: 5458] Print

The dress of the Ethiopian peoples, whose territory lay to the south of Egypt, was on the whole identical with that of the Egyptians, although it had its own peculiarities largely due to racial separateness. Their original costume was a simple loincloth of wool or leather with a cloak - like garment worn over it. This costume gradually became more varied - girdles and jackets were added, the latter being of the elastic textile material already mentioned.

Fig. 1	Fig. 2

This was the usual wear of the people, but, as in Egypt, the dress of the upper classes was different, especially at a later period. As civilization advanced there was gradually evolved a style of dress entirely different from the Egyptian style. It had more of the character of the Asiatic or, more precisely, the Assyrian style. The loincloth came to be retained by the upper classes merely as a ceremonial dress; on ordinary occasions long garments were worn.

This clothing was made of opaque material, and at first did not extend higher than the breast. It was worn by both sexes, and consisted during the early period of a longish rectangular piece of cloth wide enough to cover the body from breast to feet. This was draped round the body and legs and was fastened over the shoulders and round the hips with straps or belts.

Fig. 3	Fig. 4

By and by the garment consisted of two pieces, the front being longer than the back (The sleeveless garment is cut as in Fig. 3, but the length only comes down to the line ab. Fig. 3 shows the cut of the front piece. The back piece is cut straight at the foot (along the line ab), but is in other respects the same as the front piece. The double lines at the top of the pattern indicate the openings for the head and arms.) . The extra length of the front piece was gathered in deep folds, and these were fixed in such a way as to produce a graceful outline.

The gathering of the garment not only made it fit closer to the body, but also produced numerous oblique  folds, which Ethiopian artists indicated by parallel strokes, which suggest patterned material rather than folds of drapery. In addition to those garments which were only hip-high the men wore on the upper body elastic jackets with short sleeves. Many, however, wore a garment reaching to the neck, with tight sleeves that came down to the wrists (Fig. 1). This had already come to be the chief garment of noble ladies. It was made of patterned materials and worn with- out a girdle. It was longer in front than at the back, and was gathered in folds and fixed in the manner already described.

The only difference between this gar-ment and the one previously described was its greater length. When the two parts were sewn together they were also sewn at the top, except the opening for the head. At the sides were the armholes, and into them were fitted sleeves made separately. They were cut quite straight, and were sewn so as to narrow toward the wrists (Fig. 4).

The lower edge of the long Ethiopian garments was trimmed with strong braid, which was patterned and decorated with small tassels. The braid was also brought up the front of the garment, and served to cover up the pins and stitches used to keep in place the gathered folds.

This long costume with its gathered folds was very unlike the Egyptian style, and this unlikeness was greatly accentuated by a broad tasselled scarf or sash (Fig. 2), which was hung over one shoulder and passed under the opposite arm. This gave to the dress of the Ethiopian nobles a character not unlike that of the Court dress of the Assyrians.

Related Words:
ancient national, distinguished monarch, expensive material, woven material, FEMALE COSTUME, Old Kingdom

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